
For aviation buffs, there's nothing quite like Oshkosh. EAA Airventure in Oshkosh, Wisconsin is an enormous aviation convention held annually at the Experimental Aircraft Association headquarters. Every aviation company you can think of sets up a booth, and literally thousands of airplanes fly into Wittman Regional Airport for the festivities.

In 2017, Wittman airport saw over 17,000 aircraft movements during the week of the convention.

My dad and I have always wanted to go, and since I didn't have anything else going on this summer, we scheduled a 3-day visit to the fun. My future employer, Garmin, is also one of the biggest sponsors of the event, which gave me an opportunity to play with all of their toys.

Though I had wanted to go for the full week, my travel companion thought that 3 days at the world's biggest aviation celebration was enough (spoiler alert, I'm gonna have to go back).

# Getting To Wisconsin

We left Washington on Tuesday, boarding a flight to Milwaukee. About an hour before our arrival however, we were informed that Milwaukee's long runway was closed because of damage it recently sustained. After a brief holding circle over Wisconsin corn fields, we were informed that we'd be landing at Chicago instead. After landing we taxied for what felt like an hour, then parked at an international gate. Unfortunately the gate was not owned by Alaska, and since it was at the international terminal they couldn't let us off the plane.

We ended up sitting on the ground while we got more fuel, and the crew arranged some route between Chicago and Milwaukee, which was not in the dispatcher's database. By the time that was done the crew was going to bump into their max duty time, so they had to find a new crew that would take us back to Milwaukee (and continue on to Seattle). By the time the new crew made it we had burned even more fuel (I guess we weren't connected to ground power), requiring us to fuel up once again. We finally departed after 9pm and made it into Milwaukee shortly after. It felt very good to get off that plane.

# Day 1 - Wednesday

Since we hadn't made it to our AirBnb in Green Bay until 1am, we got a late start to our first day. After waking up and finding breakfast, we had to drive an hour south to Oshkosh. We then had to find parking, check in and get our wristbands, then take a shuttle to the main grounds. We repeated this long process every day. We decided to stay closer to the grounds next year.

Nonetheless it was well worth the journey. The booths alone are incredible. Every aviation company you can imagine was there (and some non-aviation companies, like Ford?).

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/840fbbc2eb6f4482af9b28c65dd580b9_large.png)

It's easy to see how you could leave broke. I spent a long time playing with Garmin's new touchscreen stuff (which is made in Salem!):

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c7e62ba2a98e45cda4fd23cff7afdd56_large.png)

Boeing Plaza had a C5 Galaxy as its centerpiece. The C5 was from Travis Air Force Base as well, which is where my girlfriend's father was based.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f3333bfc001e47c3be18c0342ccb7e59_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2fde1976fdce4b9295d48a18e173641c_large.png)

Try to count the number of Vans RV's. I dare you.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5fa3bd1c9c9b4cb7b4f726c18c2ee4a3_large.png)

We didn't have much time to explore though, as the airshow started in the early afternoon. We even got an impromptu display by the Blue Angels, who were not scheduled to be there.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5b0fd31cebae49f0b7490b5f93dc01de_large.png)

Like a million parachuters:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/43825e9342c549baa601e9326e4ed707_large.png)

Vicky Benzing:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/00e80fa5ffe44d409546f11317a296f3_large.png)

What was neat, although somewhat concerning, was the massive cold front that passed over during the middle of the show. Though we had beautiful blues skies at the start of the show, it slowly gave way to gray clouds.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/99af76f84a0d46cab6c43f26157c21eb_large.png)

Everyday they also did an F16 demonstration and a Airforce heritage flight to end the show.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/ae99f5fba72d4f9b90b08c8aca3d4733_large.png)

After the show was a stream of departure and arrivals, during the brief window between the afternoon airshow and the night show.

UPS MD-11 has to go back to work:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/eef6b422a7b540cf9b6f6a14cd285952_large.png)

We spent the time walking in the rows and rows of warbirds. It's difficult to describe the immense scale of Oshkosh. There are multiple acres of fields just devoted to T6's:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2b483f3539634d1daf02fd45aa9d9ef9_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/82933c36a68047f0ba31f85ba5b23be0_large.png)

The night airshow had just begun when we started to see lightning in the distance. The cold front that had passed this afternoon had brought a line of thunderstorms behind it. They continued with the first act of the airshow, but shortly after made the announced that they were canceling the rest of the performances. Also, they told us to take immediate shelter a there was a storm cell barreling towards us. This was going to be more of an adventure than we thought.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/27217f4a8865453488f5479406450de7_large.png)

On our way back I snapped some erie pictures of the C5 under a thundery sky.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/a60390c0f9554b57b6a858ed5cb15fe8_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/809a225dae7d428ea941fdbc413a41fd_large.png)

Perhaps the biggest disappointment of the whole trip was the departure of the B-1 right after the airshow was canceled. While were walking back to our cars (getting soaked in the process), the B-1, which was scheduled to depart as part of the performance, took off with full afterburners unannounced. Unfortunately we were too far from the runway to get any good takeoff pictures. This was all I could manage:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/fb396e4dc0a0498da08ae5efbb82e36a_large.png)

# Day 2 - Thursday

Thursday started in much the same way, with breakfast in Green Bay then a long drive to Oshkosh.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9511bd0057c74e08ab0feb1fc5ae9b08_large.png)

The airshow was even cooler, and featured a massive RV formation, and a C-17 demo.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3cb26a3c0a474154b410714edd23d2c8_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9511bd0057c74e08ab0feb1fc5ae9b08_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/63e1a1ad8bb445a2b55c8412acebb88c_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/6e3f672c3b5d4e6aac1dbd7906ffeae2_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/b31263feb3834355a6abfc341dc3d9b0_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/4c15b8b9fc644639814c5a3c4303b6b6_large.png)

They did some schedule shuffling as well, and were able to reschedule the night airshow. This conflicted with the twilight flight fest, which was already scheduled for Thursday night. This includes a short-takeoff and landing competition that usually takes place on the ultralight runway. Instead, they moved the STOL competition to the 8000' runway (which made it a little less impressive).

Here Mike Patey's much-hyped Draco:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f6f996c1c9bf481cb8adcbf45153b802_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/90e87dbac82f4386ad1b8f2dacce77ae_large.png)

Nonetheless it was fun to watch. The night airshow was a real treat though.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/cd5f1c78c5034eedac763f0c1d656b32_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c70957c8603c426780d89b59b00c9882_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/1cca8ba670954443b5d627f6a2b8ee02_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/1b9c8836d2f54681a4b1f2e7f874a4e9_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/431774d232ee446dbc1c90454654b047_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/baeab71cf3894435b803868eb10b1762_large.png)

# Day 3 - Friday

Day three started in the much the same way, and we even had time to walk all the way down to the Ultralight section before the airshow that afternoon.

It was cool to Draco up close, and even stopped by Trent Palmer's Freedom Fox as well.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/109ef7d4b75b4e58a6ffd1c91f65905f_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/019695176f104cf584192e40d440c440_large.png)

As we ate lunch we witnessed two F-22 Raptor's arrive:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/d244ccaa95cf4ab683f1da08578c86d7_large.png)

For Friday's airshow we decided to park at the southern end of the field where there we much smaller crowds. This turned out to be a good idea, and got some great unobstructed shots.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/e77155d39ff847b9a3ad615aa812d7db_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2eb24a47b17242d89a5a28fb73acb235_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3449510ab47f4d5d920ea2fc72de43b9_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/602595fa975846e29fc571d1ca7665b8_large.png)

This was also the only day where we the B-29 Doc flew.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/752c709f92eb4df0aa609b8bd2988863_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/307b39749403480a9d9cc7cca44bf38f_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/fefef597154943bb9897239d870e8c2d_large.png)


My first visit to the center of all things aviation

EAA Airventure Oshkosh

Walking, sweating, and eating our way through the humid capital of Thailand

Spailand Part 5 - Bangkok


## The Guggenheim Bilbao

We woke up on Wednesday determined to see as much of the Guggenheim as we could. We had to be on a bus to San Sebastian by 1:30, but the musum didn't open until 10.

Despite our time crunch, the museum was incredible. Etxebarri aside, I think this might be the highlight of my trip.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/737b626eac3f4b41b73701652bf119d5_large.png)

Jeff Koons' "Puppy," in the front of the museum:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/539aa2c554a540ff9b4cacd4b9450d9d_large.png)

["Hey Gehry, like non-linear forms much?!"](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MyT-wk0DuI)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/24a13c3670e04726999e2a171e7ef2c7_large.png)

The first pieces we saw were these [massive steel sculptures](https://www.guggenheim-bilbao.eus/en/exhibitions/richard-serra-2/) by Richard Serra. You could walk in between the narrow walls of the spirals, which open into a large room in the center.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/15f82d695ca7443eb36bb2dec8ebb228_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/ae28e569da6a4841a9fab2b406f5b909_large.png)

We later learned that all of the structures were free-standing, and not attached to the floor in any way. This made them all the more impressive.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5193c768e22549d78180a09cc486ac61_large.png)

In one of the main halls stood these tall scrolling LED displays, which would vertically show short phrases, one right after the next.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/1e3d32be4a6a40df9e4760257aaa0017_large.png)

One side of the board was red, the other was blue, and the light from the displays reflected off the back of the otherwise dark walls of the towering room.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/13413027d2ec4c9cb29452ccf41c129a_large.png)

Alex and Hannah picking sides:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/ed1a514760474dc49729f1a997592efa_large.png)

We also toured a huge exhibition of [Chinese art since 1989](https://arteychina.guggenheim-bilbao.eus/en/), which had some pretty amazing pieces (sorry, no pictures though). And briefly ran through their huge collection of Chagall.

## San Sebastian

We boarded our bus to San Sebastian around 2pm, and drove from Bilbao to the center of Donostia/San Sebastian. The journey consisted largely of napping.

Once there, Alex wanted us to rent bikes from this one shop downtown. Alex had met the owner of the bike shop a few days earlier when he was in town by himself, and learned a lot of local tid bits from him.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2fcbd9af2ad54f5f93d16dde0bd0abc7_large.png)

Though we only had a couple hours to enjoy the bikes before the shop closed, we headed out on a bike path along the beach.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/8a03487b90b54273956d5295ed8c55b7_large.png)

Compared to Bilbao, San Sebastian has a much more luxurious feel, with older more ornate buildings. Historically it has long been a tourist destination for Spanish people from other parts of Spain.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/8ad1684b76e54bcd8490bb8f9a6d1094_large.png)

We biked out to a small park along the water at the end of the path, where there were some sculptures mounted into the rocks.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3d423e7501744785a1fd70e3ce3f67f6_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/39c19deb434d4583ba49bfb9edb62dfb_large.png)

The overcast sky was a little bit disappointing, and Alex informed us several times that it's much prettier when the sun is shining.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/ae3caab3e9054d61ae31b60387c43997_large.png)

We wanted to go out for one last night of drinks and pinxtos before we left for Asia the next day, so we made our way to three packed bars.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/afa8221b46264a22973a40e354f44d36_large.png)

The first of which had an excellent dish which consisted of this tender cut of pork, topped with crispy onions (we think). Alex told us it's a special cut known as the "secret cut" in Spanish. It was incredibly savory and delicious.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/47d3dd13b63847a58f92f1551561f851_large.png)

The second place also specialized in small dishes that you can order alongside your drinks. Here we ordered a fancy slice of tomato topped with an eggplant hummus. We also ordered a grilled octopus dish. Both were superb.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3f4f2741dc384540a3dbfa315af5e1c7_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3e715fd54a1a4b529d8bc524dbba2b89_large.png)

The third place we visited was a large, packed bar.

Alex and I ordered a lot of txakolina and cider in Bilbao and San Sebastian (mostly because they're easy to order). Txakolina is a dry, acidic, and slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque region. It's more similar to cider than anything else, and is almost just a grape version of the same drink.

Neither txakolina nor cider are carbonated, but they have a slight fizz from the carbonation process. They are both served in small quantities (maybe ~1 cup of liquid), that is poured with the bottle high over the bartender's shoulder. The liquid falls a long way into the cup, splashing against itself for some extra aeration before drinking.

(Can't take credit for the picture, but you get the idea)

![Cider](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wXJfPB6Sq_I/U8lHi8-z7kI/AAAAAAAAE-Y/6e9jz43x8uk/s1600/Txakoli.jpg)

We also ordered patatas bravas, which was perfectly fine (Alex and I discussed how every culture seemed to invent fried potatoes at some point), but we also ordered a rice dish, which was amazing.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/18d6cfbc1cb34a11b124b6487ac69e1e_large.png)

To top off the night, Alex ordered a gin and tonic, which were something of a speciality here (though we're not sure why). They're also massive. Ours came in a glass that was close to the size of Hannah's head. Oh you don't believe me? Check it out:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/4e8a4aa17eaf499cbbab818a31edd61b_large.png)

We crashed back at our hostel around 1am, to get a little bit of sleep before our long travel day that followed.

## A Spanish Journey

We woke up at 5 in the morning (which sucked), and proceeded to our early-morning travel arrangements to Barcelona.

See, two months ago Alex had messaged Hannah and I and said "Hey, we should take this 7:28 train leaving Bilbao from San Sebastian to Barcelona." I said "great." I thought this meant, hey go buy your ticket. So I did.

After getting to Bilbao, Alex told me he hadn't bought his ticket yet, because he wanted to buy them together to get seats next to each other. I thought, oh that's too bad, I'm going to be sitting all by myself. Instead though, the train was full, and there were no tickets available to Barcelona. Hannah and Alex would instead have to take a 7 hour bus ride, while I sat in comfort on my high-speed train. (Oh, and Alex was [very much done with buses](https://alextravelsandstuff.wordpress.com/2018/06/17/flixbus-is-a-subpar-product/) at this point in the trip.)

The journey worked out though. They boarded their bus and I boarded the train, and we actually arrived within an hour of one another.

The train ride was very enjoyable too! A great way to see the Spanish countryside, and get some sleep in too.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/09c51cc06d80439fa806323cf85e4337_large.png)

It was neat to watch the scenery change from the mountainous, luscious region of northern Spain, into the hotter and more arid regions in the south.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3c596f4709ab485fab2f723fdefb3a1b_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/d913d2cf748e48f0bf6eeadcbc2e1c62_large.png)

## Barcelona

I have to mention my dissatisfaction with the Barcelona Sants train station. It feels small, you have to pay 1€ to use the bathroom, and a bottle of water cost me 4€. Also, they closed down the inexpensive luggage lockers that used to be in the station, and instead hired a company (not going to name names, Excess Baggage Company), which wants to charge me 25€ to hold my bag for anything more than 5 hours.

We instead opted for a service called [BagBnb](https://bagbnb.com/) (ha), which stored our bag at a nearby hostel. This was much more affordable, but getting there was a bit of a hassle.

Having dropped off our bags we did a little bit of exploring in Barcelona before heading to the airport for our flights back home.

Barcelona has a much more big-city vibe than Bilbao or San Sebastian, and the city was packed with tourists when we were there.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/988a5424a5674e5498d79489318ac091_large.png)

We stopped for a bite to eat at [Cafe Viena](https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187497-d1507746-Reviews-Cafe_Viena_Rambles-Barcelona_Catalonia.html), before making our way to the Sant Antoni market.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/6aa36b4927244e828945533681be180b_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f39324cb9b8f497fb3be7886b1fcb8f7_large.png)

The market was huge, and packed with fresh fruit juices and Iberian ham.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3f89b94f6abd49c7af09519d77c1445f_large.png)

We also visited Park Guell, with its famous curvy benches by Antoni Gaudí that overlook the city. The benches were unfortunately closed for renovation, and you had to pay and wait in line to get close to them. We opted to just take some pictures instead.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f0b943563f224cd39cba42b061ce86ca_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3cd1e59aa59e47dcbb13f4203c1f5853_large.png)

On our way down the hill we stopped in an excellent ice cream and horchata shop. The ice cream we had was good, but the horchata was incredible. It really wasn't sweet, just cool and creamy, and very light (not the cinnamon-sugar crap we get in the U.S.).

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/43d00067adc348cf8823eae1802f6309_large.png)

Doing some research later, we realized that Spanish horchata is traditionally made with sweetened tiger nuts. Mexican horchata, which is what we usually think of when we hear horchata, is made with rice, cinnamon, and almonds.

## Departure

We headed to the airport around 7pm, with our flights leaving 11 and 12. Hannah was headed off to China to live as a Buddhist monk for a month in the mountains. Alex and I were taking an Emirates flight to Bangkok, through Dubai.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/10b12c41fc17446495458370cb7be72d_large.png)

We were both pretty excited, as neither of us had flown on Emirates before.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/6a86f53b1d6344e8b0b062c50558c097_large.png)

Our first flight went smoothly. Emirates gives you complimentary pillows and blankets, and also a pretty decent meal.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0183f478cf7b4c34a8bc4a9a1ac6323c_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/1e68525c9abd4e9a801a0d4926756923_large.png)

## Dubai

We arrived in Dubai around 6:30 in the morning, and it took us a while for the plane to park at the ramp. We didn't park at a gate though, so we exited the plane into the 90-degrees heat (at 6am too, sheesh Dubai), then boarded buses which would take us to the main terminal.

The bus driver instead gave us what seemed like a tour of the entire airport, which was cool, but there were tons jet-lagged tourists crammed into the back of the bus, so it wasn't all that enjoyable.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c9e41c39594a4f6c9af9bf0754baba44_large.png)

The Dubai airport is weird. Much like Gatwick, there is an enormous amount of duty free shopping. But like fancy shopping. We passed a Gucci and an Armani. Who is buying a \$6000 purse on their layover? I guess maybe the same people [taking a shower in their A380 flight](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84WIaK3bl_s).

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c9e41c39594a4f6c9af9bf0754baba44_large.png)

It's also massive. The terminal we were in had at least 7 stories.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5b6e48b1dc0c4741b5a9b13cbe18c991_large.png)

Though the terminal had large floor-to-ceiling windows, you couldn't get close to them to watch the airplanes outside. Plane spotter score: 6/10.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/992de8f62cee4d86b91f3fbb59334ec4_large.png)

## Whoops

By the time we made it into the terminal, figured out which direction we needed to head, and took the tram to the next terminal, we estimated that it was at least 7:30. We made our way up into our terminal and found our gate. We also used the bathroom, found some water, and relaxed for a bit.

Somehow, both of us lost track of time. We eventually figured out that neither of our phones updated their timezone. Both of us were exhausted, and we took a nap in our chairs right in front of the gate. We woke up with no one around us, and rushed over to the gate doors and found them closed. We had missed the boarding window by 2 minutes, sitting in front of the gate.

A couple things:

- **Dubai maintains a "silent airport,"** which means they don't do boarding or paging announcements in the terminal. We think this is because Emirates, by far the largest carrier there, has a very large number of flights that leave within a short time window.

- **There's an inside part to the gate**. Usually you go through the gate door and get on the plane, but at this airport you go through the main gate door into a secondary holding pen (after they've checked your boarding pass). You wait there until your boarding group is called, then you get on the plane. This means that no big line forms in the main terminal (where we were waiting).

The plane boarded and departed with pretty much zero ceremony from inside the terminal. I'm a little annoyed they wouldn't let us into the boarding two minutes after "boarding has closed," considering we were still 20 minutes before departure, but whatever. It was undoubtedly our fault.

We were lucky though, and they booked us on the next flight, 2 hours later, for a change fee (or rather, a stupidity fee) of \$110.

It's good we weren't stuck in the Dubai airport for 12 hours. I wasn't about to buy a \$9 bottle of water.

## Arriving in Bangkok

The next flight was much like the last, although with a different meal. 6 and a half hours later we landed in Bangkok, where the local time was around 11pm. We again walked a few miles from our gate to the customs booths, and an incredibly enthusiastic customs agent signed our passports and welcomed us into the humid wonderland (just kidding he didn't say anything).

We watched the baggage carousel go around for what seemed like 5 hours, and eventually the reality set in, my bag did not make it to Bangkok. We walked groggily over the customer care desk, and they had me fill out the missing bag paperwork. Turns out, my bag never made it out of Dubai (though somehow Alex's bag made it).

They said they would put it on the next flight, which turned out to be the next-next-next-next-next flight, but it eventually made it.

As it turns out Emirate operates something like 6 flights between Dubai and Bangkok everyday. Five out these six flights are operated using an A380 (the [double-decker plane](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airbus_A380) for the regular readers out there). Part of the reason we booked our original flight on Emirates is so we could get a ride on the A380. The flight we got bumped to was the only flight that day where they use a boring, old Boeing 777, so we missed our ride on the A380. But hey, at least my bag got to ride on one.


Our whirlwind visits to San Sebastian, Barcelona, Dubai, and finally arriving in Bangkok

Spailand Part 4 - Eurasia


The impetus for this entire trip was to eat at [Asador Etxebarri](http://asadoretxebarri.com/en/), a Michelin 1-star restaurant in the Axpe valley outside of Durango, Spain.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/15704891628348d7bbd54b97301d7a1a_large.png)

_[Full disclosure: This meal was an incredible experience for me, but it has been a lifelong dream for my friend Alex. He has a [very entertaining blog post about the experience](https://alextravelsandstuff.wordpress.com/the-best-meal-of-my-life-and-a-brief-tribute-to-anthony-bourdain/), which I encourage you to check out. He articulates what makes this restaurant special much better than I.]_

The restaurant is the lifelong product of local chef (and grilling prodigy) Victor Arguinzoniz, who was born and raised in Axpe.

Everything on the 16-course tasting menu is made on Arguinzoniz's custom-built, adjustable height wood-burning grills (save for a couple of the dessert dishes). You could call it the best BBQ restaurant in the world.

Etxebarri was rated 6th best in the world by the [World's 50 Best Restaurant List in 2017](https://www.eater.com/worlds-50-best-restaurants-awards/2017/4/5/15184950/worlds-50-best-restaurants-2017) (though it did fall to #10 in 2018).

## Getting There

Getting to Etxebarri is somewhat of a challenge. We took the Euskotren light-rail from Bilbao to Durango, then took a taxi from Durango to the restaurant.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/a8ffd9fac16d445caa0ea21a5ade98f8_large.png)

Interestingly, the Michelin star rating system incorporates what kind of journey is involved:

> According to the guide, one Michelin star represents a “very good restaurant in its category,” while two stars denotes a restaurant boasting “excellent cooking” that is “worth a detour.” Three stars, however, is the ultimate accolade, afforded only to those restaurants that offer “exceptional cuisine” that is “worth a special journey.” - [Food Network](https://www.foodnetwork.ca/dining-out/blog/what-it-takes-to-become-a-1-2-or-3-michelin-star-restaurant/)

We all agreed that Etxebarri undoubtedly required a special journey. Where's its 3rd star?

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2b26c0c7c9c34cbb84663b2f22b126bd_large.png)

As it turns out, there is a casual-looking bar in the front of the restaurant. We walked into the empty bar and just stood around awkwardly for a couple minutes, before being directed to the actual dining room in the back.

Their dining room can only hold 30 people, and they only do one afternoon meal service per day, which means the chef gets to go home by 4 or 5pm. Compared to the lifestyle most chefs endure, this seems like a great gig.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3868af5804a74e139a4b4b17981c113d_large.png)

Unfortunately, this also makes for an intensely competitive reservation process. Alex actually found a bug in their reservation system, and wrote them an email giving them a heads up (remember kids, don't use client time for your booking software). They were thankful for spotting the issue, and graciously offered us a table.

## The Meal

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/6da74c986e564576832bdb8c8bc0495c_large.png)

The tasting menu features 16 courses spread out over 2 or so hours. Each course is small and unique, always perfectly presented.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/d2368563a5094094b6387529f52dbfc4_large.png)

### Wine

So, it turns out that none of us know how to order wine. The sommelier initially greeted us at our table and asked us if we would like to pair any wine with our meal. Since there was only one sizable meat course, he suggested we opt for a white.

We very politely asked him for a "more affordable option," and he recommended two whites: one from Spain and one from France. He also said something about the prominence of "water" in the Spanish wine, which was in contrast with a more "sunny" feel of the French option. Knowing nothing about wine we randomly decided on the French option, which we then communicated with something like "Uh, yeah, I guess we'll have the French one."

So yeah, we went to the 6th best restaurant in the world, they asked us for wine, and we said "We'll have the French one." We were off to great start.

The sommelier then showed Hannah the bottle, to which she awkwardly nodded. He then corked the bottle and placed a small tasting pour in her glass. Unsure whether to smell it or taste it, Hannah looked at Alex and I searching for answers. We were, of course, no help at all, and were just as lost as she was. (The sommelier then jokingly covered his eyes at this point). Eventually she tasted the wine and said it was good, which is what we were supposed to do (I think).

So I think I'll Google "how to order wine" before my next fancy restaurant experience.

### 1: Anchovy, salted

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/578f22bda12b4f97b5201a8d93d1f27c_large.png)

Our journey started with these salty, savory anchovies on the lightest, thinnest, and crunchiest crackers. Salted anchovies are a staple food in the Basque region, and these were undoubtedly the best anchovies I've ever eaten.

### 2: Chorizo

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/68e1f7ae367d4c74a77470eb8063ec3d_large.png)

These mild, subtly salty chorizo slices were served on soft crackers that were oddly satisfying to bite through. I was amazed by how the meat and the bread were just about the same softness; you could easily bite cleanly through the whole thing without fighting with the sausage in the middle. This is probably how sausage should be, but I'm so used to the tough, almost rubbery crust that forms around cheap grocery store sausage in the U.S.

### 3: Butter, goat's milk

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/8a2164c146264effa71a1d188d9d02fd_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9327f5ce60a94716b503ab6ae266bb44_large.png)

The bread had a tough crust but a very moist center. The butter was served in the center of the table, topped with volcanic-ash infused salt. The butter too was smoked, and was best described by Alex as "It was like eating a campfire."

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0add9c3ec8364152928ee0fd0e6fb306_large.png)

Throughout the rest of our trip (even in Thailand) if we were ever served bread we would always joke, "HEY! Where's my volcanic ash infused salt butter??"

### 4: Buffalo, fresh cheese

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c5cd7f9a670a4e45bab27bb1e49e2207_large.png)

It might have been the state of my palette at this point in the meal, but I think this course might have been my favorite. It was a ball of perfectly formed soft buffalo cheese, which reminded us very much of burrata. When cut, the skin around the cheese would pull away slightly, and the center would would ooze just enough to entice you, but still keep enough shape so you could place it on your fork.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/a9c075b8d69349d48aea385d59d17955_large.png)

The cheese had a phenomenally fresh, creamy taste and would melt just slightly in your mouth. The ball is topped with the tiniest sprig of basil, and some condensed tomato paste. Though the toppings look like they're just there for presentation, when you got all three in your mouth it was reminiscent of a fresh caprese salad. I ate this one as slowly as I could.

### 5: Asparagus, tomato and watercress

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/d81b9624b79d49899e03bacfb9f8b45b_large.png)

Carrying over the notes of tomato and herb from the last course, this dish gave a much more watery freshness. It was a kind of hard to eat though, as the asparagus stem was difficult to cut against the grain.

### 6: Pod razor, green pepper emulsion

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/1bf9140ec5d548a794c8524b83dba1c6_large.png)

This dish carries over that watery, plant-based freshness from the previous course, but instead presents it in a green pepper sauce over the pod razor clam. I always liked how the plate seems to be the same shape and texture of the shell. The pod was chewy with notes of seawater.

### 7: Prawns of Palamos

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/fb629643f45d434aae1f59d7872d9326_large.png)

Following the introduction of seafood from the last course, these perfectly grilled prawns brought a much more intense ocean-like flavor. We learned later that there's really nothing to this dish. You just get incredibly fresh prawns (caught the previous afternoon or early that morning), sprinkle a little salt, then grill to perfection and serve.

Having never eaten a prawn, our waiter (with help from our translator Alex), said to rip off the head and hold it down facing the table. Then, suck the juices out of the head (because that's the good stuff), then work your way through the meat in the tail.

I did as instructed, and those head juices hit me pretty hard. It tasted almost like warm, buttery, shrimpy seawater, which I guess is what I should have expected. It wasn't totally to my liking, but I think it's because I haven't really eaten prawns before. Unfortunately, I don't think any prawn will ever live up to this.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/a399b830669a42938f9fa20fd04b9867_large.png)

### 8: Date mussel and broad beans

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/48a206c1bb49481d96aed1110f4cdb92_large.png)

Keeping with the seafood from the last course, this dish included soft, slightly rubbery mussels in a warm, fresh set of beans in the bottom.

### 9: Cod koktxa

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0017965a52ac44d8ba2c489df988305c_large.png)

This course features a tricky neck cut of the cod fish, which is very soft. We were later told by one of the restaurant hosts that this is one of the most difficult dishes, as it requires the fish to be coated with the egg while it's being grilled. If the egg falls onto the coals below, it will produce a rotten smell and ruin the portion of fish.

### 10: Scrambled egg and spring mushrooms

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/83e417099ba44f21be7f7ca2efb3af10_large.png)

This course was texturally incredible. The base was a warm, soft, and very creamy scrambling of a whole egg, mixed with finely cut mushrooms, and topped with something shaved (though we're not sure what).

### 11: Peas with their juice

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/4312c0a027064816a937173d0be31dc5_large.png)

These peas are one of the classic Etxebarri dishes, and are fairly simple compared to the rest of the courses. The peas are known in Spanish as "teardrop peas," and one of the waiters informed us that its because they look like tears. But she also said there's another theory: the peas take so much effort to harvest, and their yield is so low, that you shed tears once you realize all you have is a couple handfuls.

### 12: Pearly razorfish and baby carrot

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/641ac9913406442697093645298e82ca_large.png)

This dish was very interesting, and included a cut of fish with the skin on, and the scales pulled back and then seared. This gave the skin of the fish a crispy texture. The inside however was a bit chewy.

### 13: Beef chop

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5454bea1864b4b2193b2dc563e6d0a67_large.png)

You could hear the gasps when this thing hit the table. All the courses before this had to be kept small to make room for this huge slab of meat, which was for all three of us to share.

They informed us that were specifically allowed to use our hands to pull meat off of the bone, which of course we did.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/fcffb556a14147378ad22779fac6da6b_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0e9a2a73172f47588ea7ac37a27c616b_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/ac36e822f2d84a62bc130c7e5f6af350_large.png)

Honestly, I wasn't expecting us to finish it. Do they even give you to-go boxes at a place like this? It was so incredibly delicious though, we didn't end up needing one.

We learned later that the cut of meat was from an old dairy cow. Unlike the beef we consume in the U.S., which are young and mostly grain-fed, this cow probably lived a long, productive life producing milk.

### 14: Pre-dessert

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/15d33aa015f94a68b6001e0cdf94d304_large.png)

I didn't know this, but apparently fancy-schmancy restaurants like this have a thing called "pre-dessert." This dish is usually somewhat acidic and designed to cleanse the palette before the more delicate sweet flavors that follow.

These were small, cold, and slightly sour mochii filled with lemon and mint granita. We learned afterward that a couple of the supporting chefs in the kitchen were Japanese, and they made this dish. It was probably the best mochii I've ever had.

### 15: Milk ice cream, beatroot juice

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/06b6baafbc7a4deeb6c4332d656285bb_large.png)

This dessert was phenomenal. It was a simple scoop of freshly-spun ice cream suspended in beetroot juice (Sadly, I don't think the ice cream was made over the grill. If there was a way to make ice cream over fire though, Victor probably would be doing it).

The ice cream held its shape just enough to blend with the beetroot juice, allowing you to get both elements on your spoon at the same time. The beet balanced the sweetness of the ice cream perfectly, but oh man, the ice cream was out-of-this-world. After talking to our hosts after out meal, we learned it was just milk and sugar (no egg), which made it so incredibly light. They purposefully spin it right before serving so it's incredibly soft and creamy.

I think I always underestimate how much high-quality dairy can make a difference in simple dishes like this. Cream can have such a tremendous, yet fragile flavor, but rarely do we put it center stage. I think this is because we're pretty used to high-volume, low-quality dairy products in the U.S.

[And Alex, if you ever make ice cream this good at home, please call.]

### 16: Sweet pumpkin and cherry

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/b5edc15c64c6403692373327642cf51c_large.png)

This dessert was a little more intricate than the last, and consisted of sweet yet tender cherries atop a pumpkin custard, topped with a cherry sauce. This one was fun to eat slowly. I was amazed that even the little flowers on top added flavor to the dish.

### 17: Flan de Queso (a bonus!)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f311da05a5b04a81a9c0f9daa6cc9ea7_large.png)

Before we started eating, Alex asked our waiter if it would possible to get an extra order of the Flan de Queso, a dish that was recently on their menu but had been taken off before we got there. They said they would check with the kitchen and let us know.

We didn't hear anything until we were about halfway through the pumpkin and cherry course, when they brought out this magnificent little cheesecake. Oh it was so good. Imagine you're eating a cloud made of the world's finest cheesecake, but firm enough to spoon in your mouth.

## The Kitchen

After our meal we kind of just sat there and talked, I think for two hours. We chatted with some of the other patrons who were there that day. We didn't know at the time, but we were their only guests for the day, and the kitchen crew had already gone home.

At some point we even stopped and ask, "Hey, should we give you money at some point?" To which our gracious host replied, "Oh only if you want to."

After we had paid our sizeable bill, we asked if we could see the kitchen.

The kitchen is in the basement of the building, and is very small. Arguinzoniz has custom-built adjustable-height grills made specifically for this restaurant. He's also the only one who mans the fire and cooks over the grills.

They meticulously pick and dry different kinds of wood for the stoves, and burn different ones depending on the flavors of the dish.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/aa7dfbdb17504a37b75c131fe4ca729a_large.png)

The wood would be brought into one of two ovens in the kitchen to burn, and they would then transfer the coals to the bottom of the grills.

You should know that the ovens had been off for several hours at this point, but it was still blistering hot in that kitchen. I cannot begin to imagine what its like with several open-coal fires burning, trying to get dishes out the door, oh and do everything perfectly.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/7dd5031ff4ad4d4a847bd5c7274301dc_large.png)

We also got to peek into the pastry and prep kitchen, where the ice cream and bread was made, among other things.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0b56950762d34285856715440b43c3a6_large.png)

## It was amazing

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2c034cc4e3774cb184ff3672d4db56a7_large.png)

All in all, the whole experience was amazing. In fact, this was our whole day. We woke up, made our way to the restaurant, ate for like 5 hours, then went home and just relaxed. That right there is my ultimate vacation.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c05d35a98e564808af374ca8a3c0964b_large.png)

Overall though, I was impressed by how the end-to-end experience was so carefully thought out. I didn't notice until later, but each of the courses was very deliberately blended into the next. Each course usually had something in common with the previous, and something different in common with the next.

Additionally, the portions were so perfectly timed. Even though we ate for like 2 hours straight, none of us were gut-bustingly full by the end of it. We all had just reached a point of gentle satiation by the last course.

While it was certainly expensive and hard to get to, I'm incredibly grateful for the experience, and I'm very glad we made a special journey for it.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0db8fa35a5da4183ac9f807ce0fb1c14_large.png)


Eating at a Michelin 1-star restaurant in the Axpe valley

Spailand Part 3 - Etxebarri


My AirBnb room was small. It had a full-sized bed spanning the width of the room, and pressing up against the only windows. There was a small balcony, but you couldn't get to it without moving the bed.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9fc1459ea5894f14ab034e00b53ba0cc_large.png)

It had some peculiar features too. For instance, the bed frame and the bed posts weren't actually attached to each other. The posts were simply leaning against the bed frame, and then someone took the cord from an old phone charger and tied the two together.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/4fa63b4b4da0488189968a426b7f678f_large.png)

The shower wasn't totally functional either; the mounting bracket for the shower head was broken, and would only stay attached at an angle facing the wall. I spent my showers huddling in the corner of the tub, desperately trying to get into the stream. Let's just say the defining characteristic of this AirBnb was its price, not its amenities. I think next time I'll opt for a hostel.

I slept very well during my first night in Spain-- perhaps a little too well. In my exhausted state the night before, I failed to open the dark curtains and foolishly forgot to set an alarm.

When I finally woke up and checked my phone it was 1pm! I had spoiled a perfectly good Spanish morning.

---

Bilbao feels much like other European cities; narrow allies and plenty of traffic circles.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/7e6334a4002d4af5b95fce5a3f5efd16_large.png)

I walked through Bilbao's new town neighborhood towards the river. The city's river walk is remarkable; the water is lined with modern architecture that stands in stark contrast with the old, industrial buildings deeper in the city.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f6b1b903020348c1b8c42ab37a9a5a5b_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5374725e80a8454b8c9ea43e6fc449f5_large.png)

I crossed the Zubizuri bridge, an artistic white pedestrian bridge that takes you into the older neighborhood on the other side of the river.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/999be4ef9a344e3a8547f6754d26fdd7_large.png)

## Huh?

There's a steep wall between the river and the city streets, just like along the Seine in Paris. On my way to the heart of the old-town, I passed by several people crowded around a van with a trailer hitch. The hitch was attached to a taught rope that the draped over the hand railing along the river, and down in the water below.

Looking over the edge of the river I see that the rope is attached to a large jetski sitting in the water. The rope descended 20 or 30 feet from the railing above to the jet ski below. What on earth? Were they really trying to hoist the jetski up the side of the stone wall with a minivan and a tiny rope?

I'm no civil engineer, but I don't think that handrail was designed with this use case in mind. Plus, aren't they just going to grind the bottom of the jetski against the stone wall as they hoist it? What are they going to do once they get it to the top?

I wish I could tell you the answers to those questions, but I was too hungry to stick around. Whatever they were trying to do, I'm doubtful it was going to work.

## Old Town

I walked a little around the old town and checked out the Saint Nicholas Church. The old town feels very much like older Italian cities I've visited, with narrow streets that aren't really open to cars, with large plazas in the center.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/3e22f6a395154a45ad264f7bb2df3b60_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9f63ce54221c4e7d8adb3124558819fa_large.png)

I picked up some sunscreen at a pharmacy, and thankfully the women there spoke English, or else I would have purchased some orange-colored sunscreen.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/54fc3252ae2f44b2934a9ef478a30572_large.png)
The train station:

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/5b5c7499ae584b6da8900dd5c92894d2_large.png)

It was also pride week in Bilbao, so lots of vendors were set up along the Nervión river.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/99e64d8777454cff930bb292bf0d3174_large.png)

I've always been interested to see what street signs are like in other countries. Do they keep the red hexagonal shape for stop signs, but translate the word stop? According to the examples I saw, they just use the same design. "STOP" must fit better than "DETENER."

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/568cf1b5fe124b81ba6e354b1856bcc7_large.png)

I found my way to the funicular on the east part of town. We rode up the mountain at a speed of 6 ft/sec. Which sounds impressive, but it's actually pretty average. But at the top, the views were spectacular. Well worth the 3.25€. The park at the top was pleasant, complete with panoramic views and a dad flying his drone.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/235c9dd40fb540be9df350423a23803e_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/fbcf3079547f41a7949062ddb4a7129c_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/816cae17eef94cae88356c3d2559b369_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f1854a674daf40b689f98c6a3753f56d_large.png)

After my *fun*icular adventure, I walked to the Guggenheim Museum and found an interesting mural. I continued exploring the area around the Guggenheim, crossed the La Salve bridge and went down Daniel Buren's _Arcos Rojos_.

I made my way to the ex-warehouse, now cultural center, Adkins Zentroa. A fascinating, castle-like building with a rooftop, glass-bottomed pool as well as a gym, many inviting restaurants, a movie theater, and art exhibits.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/de59074c2e94463b98a8970eabf7471f_large.png)
![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/cdd55d3450d449b6a5c8c5dd95ceb849_large.png)

I meant to go to El Portito for some oyster pintxos, but mixed up the name and wound up at El Pintxito. I'm going to blame it on my not knowing Basque, and acute dyslexia.

Picking up some Chardonnay and grilled octopus from the bar I sat down to watch one of the world cup matches that was playing in the bar. Octopus and white wine are two things I usually dislike considerably, but these two were excellent.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/229d6013ffa2483597eadc6fdd36a16a_large.png)

Also, wine in Spain is weirdly inexpensive. You can expect to pay 1-2€ for a normal glass of wine at a bar, and all of it tasted better than what I usually buy in the U.S.

After finishing my bites, I left the bar only to immediately encounter the bar that I was actually looking for.

It was 9:30 and the sun was finally beginning to set. Bilbao is in a weird timezone. Bilbao is west of London, but, for some reason, it is one timezone ahead of London. This means the sun sets very late, around 10pm when I was visiting.

I walked around the city a bit more to take advantage of the low golden sun (and my jet-lag).

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2b4100af69ac4b7a870b0c7a6c5d0dea_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c6e5a4e38fc643aea08c6ac3850cbbce_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/63e8eb46cc294cfb8f32e798d8918b34_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/94b7f340b5f3414fa4bccad8b60db703_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/8828417233c64ed4add21bc658863809_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/00c4be35a52541caa562ff51a07a3004_large.png)

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## Starchitecture

Architecturally, Bilbao is somewhat unique, as many of the buildings are from the older industrial period. Several of the locals described the city as "all concrete," and pretty bland (also adding that San Sebastian, its more touristy neighbor to the east, was much prettier).

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c021c97a847e40d4a9f4aeecfc95de27_large.png)

In the 1970's, the region suffered a significant economic crisis that put the city's economic foundation in question. From what we can tell, Bilbao simply decided it wanted to be an artistic city. It completely revitalized its economy in the 1990s through infrastructure and cultural projects.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/c1222dd05fd4484faeb5cee4dd28871d_large.png)

The crown jewel of the process was the Guggenheim Museum, a modern art museum that stands at the edge of the Nervión river, designed by [Frank Gehry](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MyT-wk0DuI). Some argue that the museum single-handedly pulled the city out of its economic depression, and serves as an example of "starchitecture," where a famous architect builds an iconic building to bring new life into a region.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/67c1d0ae0578435889c7a6c589ebbe4d_large.png)

## New Digs

The next day I made the trek to a new AirBnb where Alex and I would be staying for a couple nights. We would also be joined by our high school friend, Hannah, who was working as a field hand on a local French farm for a few weeks before joining us. A pretty peculiar way to travel on a budget.

The trek was close enough to walk, but far enough to sweat. Unbeknownst to me, the house was high on the hillside in the Deusto (university) district.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/cafcf5c63e2a4a2193174b5739c111ce_large.png)

Suitcase in hand, and sweat pouring down my face, I climbed the 15,000 steps from the street all the way to our apartment. We determined later that we had all stopped in the same place on our way up the steps to text each other about how bad the stairs were. Great minds complain alike.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/20ce3a8430bd45b389b604dc62091d75_large.png)

The hike was well worth it though, and the views from our apartment were awesome.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/0702cc18c8264d509e16f00f1f00dd99_large.png)


Exploring the beautiful and artsy city of Bilbao

Spailand Part 2 - Bilbao


This whole trip got started back in January when my good friend Alex asked me, "Hey, do you want to eat a super fancy restaurant in the middle of rural Spain?" Without hesitation I said, "Uh, yeah I do."

Pretty quickly the trip snowballed into a two-week adventure eastbound around the globe. My high-school friend Alex was graduating from college a week ahead of me, and was planning a trip throughout Europe ending in Spain. Since my graduation wasn't until a week later, I planned to meet him in the Basque region along Spain's northern coast.

I booked an inexpensive one-way ticket from Seattle to London on Norwegian Airlines. As an added bonus, Norwegian operates this route using Boeing 787 Dreamliners. I would finally get to experience Boeing's new flagship widebody aircraft.

## Transatlantic

I arrived at the SeaTac airport about three hours before my flight. I grabbed some lunch from a Chinese place in the terminal, which may very well be the worst thing I have ever eaten.

I waited in line and boarded a bus to take us to the aircraft, which was part way out on the southern ramp next to the Alaska maintenance hangars. (Too cheap for a gate, Norwegian?)

The aircraft was tall and comfortable. The new design of the overhead bins make a huge difference in the perceived roominess of the cabin.

![Cabin](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1830/43328353071_a343c6ca83_b.jpg)

The takeoff was quiet, and we quickly broke out of the stratus layer that often lingers over Seattle. We were greeted with lovely views of Mt. Rainier, poking its head out of the clouds.

![Rainier](https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/28459584007_276eb68341_b.jpg)

I brought a biking water bottle on board with me, and shortly after takeoff I went to take a drink. The bottle has a valve that you screw to open and close, and I foolishly held the bottle at an angle when I opened it. With the decreased pressure in the cabin, the water rushed out of the bottle and shot into the face of the woman sitting next to me who, of course, was trying to sleep.

I'd like to give a big thank you to the woman sitting next to me, who totally played it cool and pretended to sleep through the whole experience. She turned out to be very nice, and I apologized later in the flight. Remember kids, say no to ~~peer~~ ambient pressure.

## London

We landed at London Gatwick around 6 or 7 in the morning, and proceeded to walk what must have been 14 miles from the gate to customs, winding through long quarantined hallways.

My next flight wasn't until 8pm that night, so I had a whole day to spend in London. After making it through customs and getting my bag, I grabbed some coffee, checked in my bag at the holding counter for the day, and purchased an oddly expensive train ticket to the city center (34£ for a round-trip ticket? Yikes.)

The train was fast and comfortable though, and dropped me off in the middle of London Victoria station, just blocks from Buckingham Palace.

With no real agenda, I just walked around and took some pictures.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/38ea5a75a6b64a46b92e76e78593754d_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/e2ef7f2ad9a0467fadae7b1351e1cb7c_large.png)

I happened to walk by during the changing of the guards, which made for quite a spectacle for tourists.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/f08cfef09a09417aa45717607d3b623c_large.png)

I continued to the walkway along the Thames, finding a cool Battle of Britain memorial, the London Eye, and Westminster Abbey.

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/2e2263d99233458eb524936e2fcea19a_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/e144c17883064b339a32bc1186de8801_large.png)

![](https://fstop.s3.us-west-2.amazonaws.com/media/9f55c564156845168e7db44f0bb16824_large.png)

I stopped into a small Italian deli that was packed with locals (usually a good sign), and picked up a sandwich for lunch. My appetite was in complete disarray, as my body thought it was the middle of the night. The sandwich was delicious nonetheless.

Though I could've spent a couple more hours in the city, I was exhausted, and took the Gatwick Express back to the airport to kill some time before my flight.

## Spain!

Gatwick airport is not really airport, but more of a shopping mall with a couple runways on either side. The amount of duty-free shopping in that place is ridiculous (or that's what I thought, until I went to Dubai).

The terminal itself is very spread out, and has very few windows. As an aviation enthusiast, I have to give it a 5 out of 10.

They didn't announce my gate location until 10 minutes before boarding, which required some rushing to the gate at the last minute.

I boarded my flight to Bilbao and kept my eyes open just long enough to see the takeoff. After that I was out.

We landed around 11:30 that evening, and there was still a tinge of daylight left in the sky.

Not wanting to decipher the public transit system at night in my jet-lagged state, I took a cab to my AirBnb for the night.


The beginning of the multi-continent adventure

Spailand Part 1 - Getting There


A friend of mine recently shared with me his love for solving Rubik’s cubes. Having never actually solved one, he walked me through the steps of solving a single layer, then placing the second, and finally placing putting the top in place. It was oddly satisfying, and I was definitely hooked.

There’s something peculiar about the Rubik’s cube. Of the people I’ve talked to, many will say “oh my brain doesn’t work like that,” or “I just can’t wrap my head around how it moves.” I think most people (and for long time, myself included) believe that you have to have some rare savant power of visualization to solve the cube on your own. But sitting down with someone who knows the puzzle well (and can share their enthusiasm too), you find it’s simply a series of steps that you practice, memorize, and eventually begin to understand.

Having fallen ill during my last week of fall quarter classes at school, I found myself on the couch, shivering from chills: the perfect opportunity to figure it out.

Solving the cube in the traditional method requires a few algorithms, a certain sequence of steps that achieve a specific goal. As you put more and more of the cube in place, the algorithms get longer and more complex as you have to rotate/permute certain faces without disturbing the rest of the cube.

The traditional method generally follows 7 steps:

1. Solve the white edges
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps1.png)
2. Solve the white corners
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps2.png)
3. Solve the second layer of the cube
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps3.png)
4. Solve the yellow cross
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps4.png)
5. Solve the yellow face
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps5.png)
6. Permute the yellow corners
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps6.png)
7. Permute the yellow edges
   ![](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/CubeSolutionSteps7.png)

In an effort to become better acquainted with the process, I wrote a little cube simulation in HTML / Javascript to play with. I started with a simple simulation of a cube and implemented the 6 different rotations (Front, right, up, left, down, and back). Having a virtual cube to play with, I eventually decided to attempt a solver.

![Solver screenshot](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/solver_screenshot.png)

Interestingly enough, the real challenge came in the first few steps. Because there are so many initial combinations for a scrambled cube to be in, aligning the white edges usually comes down to simply looking at the cube and reasoning out how to align each edge. This is in contrast to the latter moves, where you would apply an algorithm while the cube is in a given orientation.

Each of the 7 stages starts with the cube in a certain orientation, and then applies a set of algorithms until it reaches a goal. It then continues to the next stage. This emulates how I learned to solve it, and how most people approach the problem. In consequence, the solutions it finds are by no means the simplest (with the fewest possible steps), but it does do a good job emulating how most beginners solve the cube. For this reason, I think the widget is perhaps best used as a learning tool, and can help someone better understand the traditional steps for solving famous puzzle.

Feel free to play with the solver [here](https://rubix.ericburlingame.com/)

![Cube](https://ericburlingame-blog.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/blog_images/2016/12/Rubix-1.jpg)
